Foraging in the Fall

Foraging in the Fall This time of year, I am a greedy squirrel. I am constantly looking for acorns, walnuts, chestnuts, hazelnut hulls, little cones, and anything that I think might contain a tannin. Everything I find is windfall: lying on the ground and in abundance. I look for tannins that are almost completely unnoticed by the public, except possibly by other natural dyers. I wonder who else in my neighborhood is circling the same walnut tree, looking up and counting the number of bright green nuts left to fall. The number of tannins that you find is pretty amazing. … Read more

Harmonious and Humongous Color…

Above: each row represents a rainbow that the teams dyed. From top to bottom: Gallo Tannin, Cutch and Myrobalan I just returned from a 5 day workshop at Sanborn Mills Farm, a favorite place to teach natural dye classes. They cultivate a full dye garden just steps away from the dye studio, and the entire farm, animals, historical buildings, teaching facilities and workshops are endlessly inspiring. My workshop started out with a challenging, but modest proposition that we work in three teams and create 12 colors for each team, 36 colors total. Each group chose a palette and we got … Read more

Mordant Monday: In the clutches of Cutch Dye

Cutch Dye This week’s Mordant Monday explores another well known and important tannin: Cutch. Cutch is a wood dye from Senegalia catechu (formerly Acacia catechu), an acacia species that grows in South and Southeast Asia. The dye is both a colorant, and a traditional medicine. It is also the by-product from the manufacture of “katha”, which is a crystalline substance that is an ingredient in paan or betel nut leaf, which is an Indian mouth freshener and digestive. We’ve never tried paan, but we love cutch for its versatility and deep colors. It’s a sweet-smelling dye and the color yield … Read more

Mordant Monday: Tannin Rainbow with Chestnut, Fustic, Iron and Indigo

Tannin Rainbow with Chestnut, Fustic, Iron and Indigo This week’s Mordant Monday focuses on Chestnut. We used Chestnut extract in our gradation and absolutely loved the combination of Chestnut, Fustic and Iron with Indigo. This gradation is slightly different than our previous experiments. This time I did not overdye with a warm shade like Madder, to get corals and pinks. I wanted to focus on green and blue. Like previous examples, when a tannin is combined with other colors you can get exciting mixes and beautiful color blends that harmonize and are perfect for patchwork, creating gradations and stitching. If … Read more

Mordant Monday: LIME GREEN

On this Saint Patrick’s Day, learn how to make this punchy lime green! We are pulling this exciting color back from our archives. Wink wink, you might remember it from this summer…Using weld and indigo, you can get awfully close to this punchy acid green. Natural dyes are often thought of as pastel or “soft” colors, but we’re here to help you make a hue that really packs a punch! This is the basic recipe Start with a mordanted cotton bandana, soak it in warm water for 30 minutes to thoroughly wet it out, and dip in a very light … Read more

Mordant Monday: Planting a Dye Garden

“the sunflowers themselves far more wonderful than any words about them.”― Mary Oliver, Upstream: Selected Essays Spring is coming so now is the chance to grow a few pots of your own color: dye flowers or indigo, or perhaps plant out some madder root for future harvest. Growing dye plants from seed is very rewarding, and you may have enough starts to share with your friends and community. There is a magic to walking outside and checking to see how the dye plants are doing. A few minutes inspecting, watering and talking to them is immensely calming. Watching the pollinators feast reminds … Read more

Mordant Monday: A Great Red with Madder Extract

My notes on how to make a great red. Madder extract is the perfect ingredient for a beautiful, vibrant red that almost glows because it has a gorgeous golden undertone. Sometimes the color veers toward a winey burgundy (equally beautiful), but I wanted to get almost a glowing ember feel to this yarn. To so this, I used a little bit less madder and the minimum amount of calcium carbonate. Here’s how I did it. Materials Instructions Where’s the Cream of Tartar? Cream of tartar is a great mordant additive for dyeing as it helps keep wool soft and assists … Read more

Mordant Monday: Why so Many Alums?

For today’s Mordant Monday, We are revisiting a great question: All those alums?! Why so many alums? You Asked: Hello, I am wondering if it is possible to use Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate for mordanting wool? I am finding this substance in the spice section ofthe grocery store. I can’t seem to find definitive information about this and I feel confused about all the different “alums” that exist.  We answered: The different alum types are basically the same mineral but they are refined differently for different purposes using a variety of chemicals. They can look different, too. For protein fibers, aluminum … Read more

Mordant Monday: Wool Fibers Feel Weird

It’s winter, and many of us have taken up knitting and crocheting during the cooler weather. While I’m thinking about knitting, my mind wanders to mordanting (of course), and some of the questions we’ve received from curious dyers.   This Mordant Monday, I thought I’d start with some common questions when mordanting changes the hand feel and quality of wool fibers. The natural dye process uses a lot of heat, and a fair amount of handling: stirring, squeezing, rinsing.  It’s easy for wool to react to all of this and become rougher feeling, even felted!  Check out this week’s Mordant … Read more

Mordant Monday: Mordant questions

Here’s a round up of mordant questions from the community! Do I need to rinse mordants before dyeing? We rinse aluminum potassium sulfate mordanted fibers lightly before proceeding to the dye pot. We rinse aluminum acetate mordanted fibers lightly after we’ve completed the calcium carbonate dunging step. We rinse aluminum sulfate and tannin mordanted fibers lightly after the aluminum sulfate step. We rinse aluminum triformate mordanted fibers after the mordant step. We rinse iron mordanted fibers well after the iron mordanting step. How do I increase the amount of mordant on something that’s already been previously mordanted? We’ve had good … Read more