Contact

Image courtesy of Tolt Yarn and Wool

Image courtesy of Tolt Yarn and Wool

A note about natural dye usage:

The natural dyes that we carry are textile grade products and suitable for use with textiles to dye, paint or print only.  We do have a number of products that are in raw form or are food grade but they are not stored in a manner conducive to safe food handling and therefore should not be used in food products. As well, the dye liquids and extracts are not suitable for food or beverage coloring, cosmetics, hair coloring, body paint or tattoos, spray tanning on skin or coloring commercial products such as tinctures, solutions or other preparations.  We are unable answer questions about these types of uses and cannot be held responsible for their use in this manner. Thank you for understanding.

Our studio is located in Seattle, Washington.

For wholesale inquiries or orders, please email wholesale@botanicalcolors.com

For order status inquiries, please email orders@botanicalcolors.com.

Please use this form to email us your comments and thoughts.  Scroll down for the contact box.  Please note that we may publish your general question in our Feedback Friday blog post, so be sure to browse.

We generally respond within 5 business days.  Thanks for your interest in Botanical Colors!

 


27 replies on “Contact

  • kittynj58

    Hi Kathy,
    I have read that Logwood does not work well with cellulose fiber in making purple. What is a good natural dye for getting purple for linen and cotton?

    thanks,
    Kitty

  • bwestra

    Hi Kathy,

    I want to try logwood for the first time. What is the difference between the special logwood (is it powder?) and the the logwood chips? Is there an advantage of one over the other?

    thanks!
    Beverly

  • Linda

    Hi,

    I recently purchased appropriate supplies and used Michel Garcia’s 1-2-3 Indigo Vat on a relatively fine/soft Romney roving. I used a strong vat, that is 100 grams of indigo, 200 grams of pickling lime, and 300 grams of fruit sugar. The color is lovely, but the wool came out very scratchy/harsh. Is that typical? Any thoughts on how to prevent?

    Thanks much

  • marymarvelli@gmail.com

    Hi,

    I spoke with Dharma Trading concerning adding a mordant directly to your print paste thickener, as opposed to pre-mordanting my fabric. I dye lots of yardage, so soaking a huge amount of fabric at a time is not realistic. They said they had experimented at their facility and it was possible to work in this manner. Do you agree?

    What would be the instructions if working with wool, versus working with cotton or linen?

    Thanks Much,

    Mary

  • anjahakoshima

    Hi Kathy ,

    I’m a relative newcomer to natural dyeing and have been working with plant extracts for about 6 months. I have a two-part question for Feedback Friday:

    1. How to avoid getting splotchy, uneven color: I recently scoured (on the stovetop) and mordanted (4 – 8 hours in aluminum acetate bath) a couple of 3/4 yard pieces of heavy organic cotton canvas (12 oz.) and dyed them: one with madder and one with walnut. The colors are nice and took well in sections but they are very uneven. The madder piece has darker sections and the walnut has lighter splotches. I used what I thought was a large enough pot ( 4 gallon) and stirred frequently. Do you have any tips to getting even color?

    2. How to salvage unevenly dyed fabric: Is there anything I can do to re-dye or remove color from the existing pieces?

    I’m learning so much from your blog and appreciate the advice. Thank you so much!
    Anja

  • texupport

    I like the 7″ dyer’s rings, but have heard that aluminum is reactive to dyes and can have an effect on the dyed wool.

    Is this a problem ?

  • texupport

    Thanks, this was very quick to reply.

    Another question – we are working with fine wool, NOT super washed, in 4 oz/ 100 gram skeins. We source the Merino fleece from Missouri and have it milled in the US. We have over 400 lbs to work on at this point.

    We have recently decided to only use natural dyes and will be developing our process.

    For mordanting, is hot tap water enough or will I need to put it on the heat ? I thought I read hot tap but your main doc calls for 180F degrees. I don’t think the tap water will get quite that hot. My plan for this processing is that I can mordant , dry and store for dyeing. Needing to put it on the heat will make it more problematic.

    Thanks

  • texupport

    We would like to, we haven’t done any yet, it will be our Spring Project to test this out. I really like your philosophy and the opportunity to do whole sale purchasing.

  • leatherdyer

    Hello,

    If I was dyeing leather with dye extract, would you still recommend that I heat up the dyebath before I put the mordanted leather? I’m mostly curious if extracting a deeper color from something like cutch extract requires heat, or if it’s a result of water evaporation. Thanks!

  • jennhoff211

    Hi,

    I am dying silks with the Saxon blue liquid extract. Do I need to Mordent the silks with this type of dye and material?

    Thanks!

  • Meg

    Hi Kathy,
    Can you tell me if you can get any kind of substantial color by dip-dyeing a mordanted piece of cotton fabric into a jar of any of your dye extract colors that has been dissolved, heated, and cooled? We are trying to get a mobile natural dye station as part of our kids activities, and wondering how and if we can do this with some pre-prepared dyes in big glass jars. Thinking many kids, limited time. Thanks so much. Sincerely, Meg

  • carol

    I am trying to achieve aqua blue/light teal with combination of liquid pomegranate & Saxon blue. Results on mordanted silk habatoi using ratio for light shades listed on you site were a “fern green”. Please advise as to the correct method/ratio to achieve aqua or light teal.

  • cndcsmith253

    How long can wool yarn mordanted with alum & cream of tartar be stored? I have ‘rediscovered’ some handspun that I mordanted over 3 years ago and then stored dry in a sealed container. Does the mordant stay with the yarn or should it be re-mordanted (with the same mordants) before using it? I want to use it to dye with cochineal. Thanks for your advice.

  • Hagar

    Hi Kathy,
    HELP is needed. I am very new to indigo dye and dyeing at all. My first two Vats worked exactly as in your instructions. Yesterday I (tried) to make my third. NOTHING happened. everything stayed a murky dark blue. I tried again. Again no reduction but there was some flowering. First I added more calcium and then more fructose. NO REDUCTION.I checked th PH and it was very + (14).
    This morning I tried again. It was more successful, but still not like my first trials. Much less flowering, but it has reduced.
    Have you noticed that in you instructions in”How To” you write to add the fructos first and in your instructions that I received with the powders it says to first put the calcium.
    Does it make a difference.? Does the indigo powder “get old”.? I purchased it a half a year ago.
    Thanks for your help
    Hagar

Comments are closed.