We get lots of emails from customers about challenges with dyeing and needing Botanical Colors’ President Kathy Hattori’s help. Why not share the learning so we can all benefit? From our inboxes to you, it’s simple: You Asked, Kathy Answered. Email questions@botanicalcolors with your plea for help!
YOU ASKED: I use lac dyes for my blankets in my botanical prints. The silk or wool is mordanted in alum, then iron, wrung out and flowers/plants placed on the fabric. The blanket which has been soaking in lac is then (wrung out) placed on top, everything is rolled up tightly then steamed for 1-2 hours. In the past the lac has produced a beautiful deep red, but recently the color is a light pink?
KATHY ANSWERED: Lac can have different effects depending on how it it processed and what the pH of the dyebath is. If you are getting a light pink, that almost sounds like there isn’t enough dye? Did you use less dye this time?
Lac with acid (cream of tartar) will make a redder color and lac with an alkaline (soda ash) will make a more purple color. Vinegar is also acidic, so it would shift colors redder.
The pH of the water should be neutral (7) or even slightly acidic. If your water is hard with lots of minerals, that can also inhibit the dye takeup and could result in a pinker shade.
If you are getting good, strong results with cochineal, then that is puzzling because they both perform and react similarly as they are both insect reds.
I hope this helps!